The Amazing 100-Mile Road
August 2014
Leaving the comfort of Moab behind, we worked our way down the steep, twisty and exciting Shafer switchbacks from Island in the Sky Mesa to the White Rim trail below. The switchbacks present some brave souls with either beautiful red sandstone cliffs or vertigo-inducing view from the sheer drop-offs. Within 4 miles of continuous descend, we dropped nearly 1,200 feet down to White Rim trail at the bottom.
The 100-mile White Rim trail is immensely popular with mountain bikers and 4WD vehicles. Most people will spend the nights at various campgrounds along the trail. We heard the story of some folks who drove the whole trail in a day. Their feats equate to a hot dog eating contest which we sometimes watch with amusement but would become deadly serious if your vehicle becomes stranded and the nearest town is more than 150 miles away. The sullen ranger we talked earlier gave a quick shake of his head, “Towing fees in excess of $1,000 is very common! And worst, there is no cell phone reception out there and a chance of meeting fellow travelers out there is very slim!”
At mile 19, we took a detour to Musselman Arch and with the exception of a tiny sign which easily missed, we couldn’t see it from the road until we got very, very close. Ah, so the arch is not an upward arch but looks more like a flat bridge. The Musselman Arch is 5 feet thick, 6 feet wide, 187 feet long rock bridge perches precariously on canyon rims.
According to the locals, the arch got its name after a rancher named Ross Musselman, who heard about the arch and convince the locals to show it to him. Later, Musselman often takes his guests to this arch, and over time the name stuck. Despite protests from the locals, the USGS not only named the arch but also the canyon beyond with Musselman in all their maps.
The White Rim trail skirting many massive cracks and openings of hardened white sandstone. We occasionally stayed overnight right near the Airport Tower last few times when we were here.
And as usual, the whole campground was empty and quiet at night. We fast asleep under a cozy and warm blanket with the sound of crickets, light wind whistle, and the sky full of twinkle stars.
From mile 30, we spotted the Washer Woman and Monster Tower formations near White Rim’s Gooseberry section. These formations are the only spires in Canyonlands allow mountain climbing. Although we didn’t see any climber that day but imagined that climbers would appear like specks on that 500 feet Washer Woman tower (background), let alone on that 600 feet Monster Tower (foreground).
At mile 45, we reached Murphy Hogback after a steep climb in low4 gear in what seems to be abrupt 250 feet elevation change reaching Grand View Point plateau. This area got its name after Murphy brothers in 1717, and not Capt Edward A. Murphy to whom Murphy’s law attributed to. And what a view; crimson and Martian-like landscape devoid of any green vegetation all 360° around us. The hot wind was blowing sand that stung our cheeks, left grime in our mouths, but we still smile contentedly that we are very lucky to be here at all.
We pointed our Burro (our truck) down 600 feet to the other side of Murphy Hogback and heading toward Candle Stick Tower at mile 55. Seeing the tower reflection just after the rain was quite spectacular, for it has been bone dry here for the longest time.
Near Candle Stick Tower and further along White Rim Trail, the Green River wraps around the butte to create a gooseneck called Turk Head. This area used to support a thriving community of Fremont and Anasazi Indians in 1300 AD, as well as cattle and sheep ranchers in late 1800s.
On Stillwater Canyon, with a binocular one can find few well-preserved cliff dwellings and rock arts from the natives, while further up Valentine Bottom, one can see several old rancher cabins still standing.
At mile 66, we reached Potato Bottom which perhaps the closest access to Green River along the White Rim Trail. We drove down a rocky and slippery switchback with an alternating view of Green River and tall red cliffs. Within sight of Queen Ann Bottom, various campsites pleasantly scattered underneath the thick cottonwood trees. For another 10-minute walk to the river, one can take a plunge into freezing water of Green River on a hot day.
Not from our trip, but it will give you some ideas. MASS Expedition. 2018 February 10th. White Rim Trail. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJRkE1Z-vZI
Reaching intersection of Taylor Camp and White Rim at mile 77, Zeus and Moses formations is 5 miles away further from the Green River. But a few days stayed on the White Rim, we were ready for a nice soft bed and amazing foods in Moab.
Use Horsethief trail to HWY 313, we made a quick right onto the highway heading to Moab. Since then we’ve made numerous trips back to White Rim trail within the past few years. Spectacular views can be if we chose either the Shafer switchbacks or Mineral Bottom Trailhead.
GPS Coordinates
- Moab – 38°34’26.4″N 109°33’03.9″W
- Musselman Arch – 38°26’09.3″N 109°46’11.1″W
- Washer Woman and Monster Tower – 38°23’23.9″N 109°50’17.4″W
- Airport Tower campground – 38°23’29.1″N 109°47’37.7″W
- Murphy Hogback campground – 38°19’18.6″N 109°54’25.9″W
- Candle Stick Tower – 38°22’52.0″N 109°55’54.5″W
- Potato Bottom – 38°25’46.9″N 110°00’34.4″W
- Taylor Canyon – 38°28’31.9″N 109°59’55.8″W
References
- Destination details were extracted from respective attraction, hand-out literature/brochure, or website, and Wikipedia
- Statistics on White Rim formations from Rock Climbing Utah (State Rock Climbing Series, 2012) by Stewart M. Green
- Coordinates are from Google map in Degrees, Minutes, and Seconds (DMS)