Utah

Beehive State

2005 - 2018

It was hot summers in May 2010 the Grand Canyon when we felt the calling of the west vast desert and dramatic landscape. Remember peering down at the Colorado River winding down below from the Grand Canyon Toroweap overlook, the vertigo-inducing height awaking our senses and reaffirms our perspectives.

Healthy doses of self-preservation prickling inside in absent of any man-made barricade
The Colorado River has been flowing through this canyon for the last 70 million years

The first encounter of the Arizona desert only to increase our appetite for it. The desolation emptiness began to call us to the land-of-all-land Utah, where we begin our journey from the big expand of Bonneville Salt Flats at the state border. At one point, we drove 5 miles on top of the blinding-white salt flat into the massive expanse to watch UROC spectacular yearly HellFire event.

A quick stop at Bonneville Salt Flat

This is the same place where numerous land speed records have been broken, and amateur rockets flown in excess of 25,000ft attracted us to this amazing place.

About 16 miles west of Salt Lake City, the Great Saltair strange structure beckons our attention on the I-80. Tingling curiosity made us taken us deep into this fascinating architecture. Built in 1893, the once magnificent structure was destroyed by fire, then left high and dry as the lake waters receded. All were lost except the small white building survived as rock concert pavilion to this day.

Early 1900 Saltair bathers enjoying once a saltier tributary of the Great Salt Lake
The magnificent structure is now gone, the only remnant left is the same building circled above

At the high of tourist seasons (spring through fall), it is difficult to find a full hook-up campground in Moab. For those occasions, we stay at a reasonably priced Ballard RV Park about 38 miles north of Moab. At first glance, it seems like a long distance, but like any attractions in Utah, this really is just a short drive away. The bonus of staying here is the Sego Canyon less than 4 miles from our campground. This canyon has the most iconic rock art anywhere in the US.

The ghost-like anthropomorphic often have hollowed or missing eyes, horns or antennae and no arms nor legs
The art style is called “Barrier Canyon” due to close vicinity to nearby Barrier Creek
The anthropomorphic figures are typically larger than life

Remembering our visit to the Great Galery a few years back. Sitting on makeshift rock slab looking up at the expansive petroglyph panel above, both of us were contemplating and admiring the stylized pictures with the oldest petroglyph was from some 4000 years ago.

The Great Gallery Panel in Horseshoe Canyon locates 75 miles away from here
Close up of the 8ft height anthropomorphic figures on the small section of the panel

Back to Sego Canyon Road (BLM-160) which we followed further north which soon reveals the remnant of an old coal mine. The coal mine started as a small family operation, then brought to peak operation in 1911 by American Fuel Company. At the peak of its mining operation, a small coal town boast nearly 200 inhabitants. But series of disasters struck this small coal town; from lack of water to raging fire hamper the mining community. Then the popularity of diesel fuel put the last nail in the town profitability coffin. By 1955, there was nothing left but a ghost town. The stone walls of the old American Fuel Company and few masonry structures still standing through the test of time.

Remnant of 1890s Sego ghost town that barely survive the coal profit they pulled from the ground
Many dilapidated structures once served as boarding house, stipple, or mining buildings
Lone grave of a coal miner, Giovani Ascani, lost his life to influenza at 35 as his wife moves on

Arches National Park situates about 6 miles north of Moab and will take National Park Pass (America the Beautiful, $80), open visitors to amazing arrays of rock bridges and arches in just 120 square miles. This park is not pet-friendly, so our pooch has to stay back in the air-conditioned trailer.

Park Avenue trailhead was an easy and beautiful hike
Landscape Arch with its 290 ft span probably the most photographed in Arches NP
Double Arch can be accessed from The Windows Road
Delicate Arch strenuous 6 miles roundtrip hike leads to massive vertigo bowl slopped to the right
Balance Rock rises 128ft above the desert floor and easy access from the park main road
Mesa Arch probably received most visits as well as most photographed at sunrise
Turret Arch can be reached after a short 0.2 mile via The Windows Road
Visitors beginning to leave the park few hours after sunset

Seeking solitude and off pavement travel in Arches National Park leads us to many unique arches otherwise off-limits to regular tourists or non-hikers.

Tower Arch can be reached after 10.4 miles via Salt Valley Trail
Eye of the Whale arch can be reached after 2.7 miles via Willow Spring Trail

There are just many beautiful and intricate arches throughout Arches National Park and will not fit in this puny blog. And just short distance from Arches National Park there even more exotic arches to satisfied to our heart’s content.

Picture Frame Arch can be reached 4-wheel drive after 6.4 miles via Behind the Rock Trail
Wilson Arch just conveniently located on the side of HWY-191

Way off the beaten path, the Tusher Tunnel can be reached by 4-wheel drive trail to Uranium Arch. The fun trail starts 1 mile south of Canyonlands Field Airport on HWY 191, or 17.2 miles from Moab. The shady tunnel is a 400ft long cave was a nice break from the scorching sun, but a regrettable get-rich-fast history of uranium mining that left a trail of death and destruction just several hundred feet below the arch.

View from the other side of Tusher Tunnel
The short tunnel ends with two openings… nice secluded spot for casual lunch
Plenty spaces for wiggle room on the trail to the arch
Uranium Arch marks the spot where uranium was mined down below in the 1950s
Birthing rock petroglyph was an easy find at the end of the trail

About 10 miles northwest of Moab, we went explore the Gemini Bridges. The road condition to this landmark has changed many times over the years. Over time, the route is nearly flattened by rock grinding equipment, and sprouting signage makes finding Gemini Bridges much easier.

Water carved out huge crevasse of boulders and left a tip toeing rock layer on top
Gemini Bridges are thin ~80ft strips of rock span across 250ft deep crevasse

Most of the spectacular sites in Moab incurred some fatalities, this one is no different. On the ~7ft gap between the spans, gravity has claimed the lives of an 18-year-old Wisconsin boy scout when he tried to hop across the spans, as well as 19-year-old Utah native when his vehicle brake failed near the bridge outer span.

The long way down from Gemini Bridges taken from Bull Canyon Trail below
Gooney Bird Rock, also popular with climbers, popular marker for the Gemini Bridges trail

About 26 miles from Canyonlands Grand View Point we visited Dead Horse State Park where tall-tail has been weaved about the flat top natural corral for horses, and the scenic cliff made famous by the movie Thelma & Louise (1991).

Potash trail circling Dead Horse Point and leading to the far left toward Thelma & Louise Point
Thelma & Louise Point can reach by going down Shafer single-lane rock and dirt trail reserved for 4-wheel drive

The most remote and enjoyable trip got to be the 100-mile White Rim Road in Canyonlands National Park. Our typical 2- or 3-day excursion sometime started at Mineral Bottom Road (also called Horsethief Trail), while other times we started from Shafer Canyon Road near Island in the Sky Visitor Center. Since the route is remote, we secured Canyonlands overnight permit in advance, selected two campsites, paid the fee and off we go.

The Shafer Trail provides dramatic entrance down to White Rim Trail

As we prepare to decent the Shafer Trail, we heard a familiar British voice calling us from behind. Turn around and there he is Lloyd in the flesh after more than a hundred miles from Colorado National Monument where we met nearly a week back. Lloyd from Eureka California and has clocked more than a thousand miles over the 144 days cross-country touring on his bicycle. We shudder to think he still has more than a thousand miles before reaching California.

Met our old friend Lloyd again after 104 miles ride and 5 days later inside Canyonlands National Park
We were trading stories along the scenic Shafer Canyon Road

We offer Lloyd warming beef stew over rice as lunchtime approaches. After relaxing and trading travel stories, we again parted ways. Lloyd was heading toward Moab using Potash Road on his rickety bike, as we continue to the Musselman Arch about 4 miles further down the White Rim Trail.

Strolling on Musselman Arch in the afternoon light
The arch was intimidating when you walk on narrow bridge with threaten side winds
Spectacular views can be found everywhere on the White Rim Trail

Our White Rim Trail excursions in greater detail can be found in our Road Less Travel Section. We have enjoyed and continue to enjoy this magnificent park for the last 14 years, as it never looks the same twice.

Inside the Needles District of Canyonlands, there is a special place called the Elephant Hills. After a few weeks of preparation for permits, campsite selections, confirmation, and fees, we embark on a multi-day excursion into the exotic landscape of the Needle District.

Goofing around before reaching Devil’s Kitchen where we will camp
Sometime lady luck smiles on us for very large campsite that nestle between rocks

The Devils Kitchen campground is remote, and each campsite has its own uniqueness. The distance between sites is far enough for a quiet and peaceful experience. But we hardly see anyone at other 3 sites every time we were there… is the park permit system too strict? Not sure, but the only people we saw in our last visit were the 2 surprise hikers passing by our campsite. Having hiked from Bryce Canyon nearly 100 miles away, Nacho and Speedo, weary but upbeat recount their travel stories. We offer them grill filet mignons and cold beers to quench their thirst.

Group shot of us, Nacho and Speedo in Devil’s Kitchen campground area
Spectacular hoodoos just outside of our campsite

About 12 miles north of Hanksville, a little-known state park contains marvelous rock formations which the locals refer to as goblins. The surreal landscape has exotic formation and a blast to stroll around with your pooch.

The massive Wild Horse Butte rises 5,760ft above valley floor
Easy hike to Three Sisters formation back in 2008, where it used to be the Three Goblins
Surreal landscape begging for casual stroll between fantastic formations
2000 years in the making results in these unique hoodoos

This state park also a site where 2 Utah natives prosecuted from vandalized one of the rock formations in 2014. The men were charged with a felony as well as stripped off rank from Boy Scout organization.

Folks enjoying free camping alongside Chute Canyon, just behind the Goblin Valley Campground
Quiet but windy night at Goblin Valley Campground

Basking in the hot Canyonlands air, we remember the amazing contrast of Utah white snow and red rocks when we visited Bryce Canyon National Park in a few years back.

Reflective snow made Bryce hoodoos appears fragile
Put our hands together for spectacular scenery
Trail was opened for some die-hard fans to explore the depth of Bryce Canyon

Perhaps little-known attraction in Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument is hiking the reclusive slot canyons. Peek-a-Boo Slot Canyon and nearby Spooky Gulch can be accessed via Hole-in-the-Rock road. Prior to visiting the slot canyons, we check the local forecast for potential rain in the area. It’s hard to survive in the miles long canyon with nowhere to run when a flash flood washes through the canyon. When all is clear, we took our trusty burro through a 4 miles deep sandy road and crossed many streams and wash to the canyon mouth.

Some canyon sections require sideway shimming to get through
While other section of Peek-A-Boo slot call for scaling the red walls
Peek-A-Boo slot canyon is only 2 miles round trip, but the experience lasted much longer

Spooky Gulch is a short distance from Peek-A-Boo but its ambient is both dark and claustrophobic with bumpy walls. The dark slot canyon seems to never receive enough lights and we felt claustrophobic in many of its sections.

Slither of light provides soothing relief to Spooky Gulch dark walls
Keeping our happy thoughts otherwise spooky passages

Zion National Park can be entered from the east or the west of UT-9. But we felt there is no better way to enjoy the park by entering the park through Zion-Mount Carmel HWY from the east. UT-9 meandering through the scenic canyon and alongside Pine Creek. The first scenic spot we came to is Checkerboard Mesa.

Checkerboard Mesa back side from Pine Creek
Checkboard Mesa patterns perhaps the most recognizable formation in Zion

One of the most prolific Indian petroglyphs in North America can be found at Newspaper Rock State Historical Monument. Just 40 miles south of Moab on HWY-191 and 12 miles via HWY-211, more than 650 petroglyphs can be found in just 200 sqft of blackish rock. The thought that these ancient artists could not undo their design once committed, leaving us with awe.

Dated at ~2000 years old, the “Tse’ Hone” above means “A Rock That Tells A Story” in Navajo language
Beside familiar figures of deer, buffalo, pronghorn antelope, snake, these carvings also depict past event

Prior to the Utah venerable pioneers call this place home such as Brigham Young, Utah was home to the forgotten ancient people, the Fremont Indians who occupied Utah, Idaho, Colorado, and Nevada from 700 to 1300 AD. We stayed at Fremont Indian State Park to explore one of the most prolific Indian cultures.

Lady luck smiling on us to have stayed in primitive site with plenty of water and restroom nearby
Petroglyphs carved high above lush valley floor once teamed with Fremont Indians
Hundreds of petroglyphs can be found along canyon walls
Cave of A Hundred Hands pictograph offers very intimate feel to the past culture

The cave was used as a shelter but not a permanent home. Only 31 handprints can be found here; 14 are from right hands and 16 are from left hands. The prints were made by various sized hands that were made with either reddish-orange, ox-blood red or mustard orange colors.

Few of the anthropomorphic figures found along the State Park rocks
Indian Blanket pictograph can be seen across HWY-70

For now, we must drag ourselves back to California for a previous engagement. Taken the side trip to Boulder City on our way back, the calm and peaceful reflection of Hoover Dam sooth our souls after intense adventure in land-of-all-land Utah.

Hoover Dam reflection from Kingman Wash Access road

Even coming back to Utah year-after-year, we still haven’t yet explored all Utah has to offer. It truly is a magical and inspiring landscape that can be found nowhere else. Besides the natural scenic beauty, the people are remarkably friendly made us feel welcome. We have seen towns and parks infrastructure changing and continue adapting people needs. Accessibility to once difficult trails is greatly improved, thus allow folks with a different condition to enjoy those spectacular parks and not just limit to triathlon level folks.

GPS Coordinates

  1. Toroweap Overlook, Grand Canyon, Arizona – 36°12’53.3″N 113°03’24.8″W
  2. Bonneville Salt Flats – 40°45’45.3″N 113°53’45.2″W
    • Hellfire Rocket Launching Site – 40°48’00.0″N 113°49’00.0″W
  3. The Great Saltair – 40°44’50.8″N 112°11’10.6″W
  4. Tusher Tunnel (off-road) – 38°42’39.6″N 109°46’57.9″W
  5. Uranium Arch (off-road) – 38°40’33.8″N 109°42’26.6″W
  6. Birthing Rock (off-road) – 38°31’19.1″N 109°36’10.1″W
  7. Gemini Bridges (off-road) – 38°35’14.4″N 109°42’35.8″W
    • Top View (via 35 miles of Gemini Bridges Trail) 38°35’13.8″N 109°42’35.5″W
    • Bottom View (via 22 miles of Bull Canyon Trail) 38°34’54.3″N 109°42’02.2″W
  8. Goblin Valley State Park – 38°33’51.2″N 110°42’11.6″W
  9. Ballard RV Park – 38°58’10.4″N 109°42’51.9″W
  10. Bryce Canyon National Park – 37°38’25.6″N 112°10’10.4″W
  11. Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument (off-road) – 37°23’44.7″N 111°41’41.3″W
    • Peek-a-boo Slot Canyon – 37°28’54.2″N 111°13’00.1″W
    • Spooky Slot Canyon – 37°28’53.8″N 111°12’32.6″W
  12. Sego Canyon Rock Art – 39°01’05.5″N 109°42’37.8″W
    • Sego Canyon Ghost Town – 39°02’01.2″N 109°42’10.6″W
  13. Zion National Park – 37°12’02.3″N 112°59’10.0″W
    • Checkerboard Mesa – 37°13’49.7″N 112°52’43.2″W
  14. Newspaper Rock State Historical Monument – 37°59’18.4″N 109°31’05.5″W
  15. Arches National Park – 38°36’56.8″N 109°36’50.3″W
    • Park Avenue – 38°37’27.8″N 109°35’58.6″W
    • Landscape Arch – 38°47’28.2″N 109°36’25.0″W
    • Double Arch – 38°41’16.6″N 109°32’11.9″W
    • Delicate Arch – 38°44’38.6″N 109°29’57.5″W
    • Mesa Arch – 38°23’21.1″N 109°52’05.2″W
    • Eye of the Whale Arch (off-road) – 38°42’55.5″N 109°36’06.2″W
  16. Picture Frame Arch / Behind The Rock Trail (off-road / need to check closure) – 38°26’25.6″N 109°25’47.2″W
  17. Canyonlands National Park / Island in the Sky Visitor Center – 38°27’35.4″N 109°49’15.5″W
    • Shafer Trail View Point – 38°26’53.9″N 109°49’17.9″W
    • Musselman Arch (off-road) – 38°26’09.8″N 109°46’12.1″W
  18. Dead Horse State Park – 38°28’13.8″N 109°44’21.3″W
    • Thelma & Louis View Point (off-road) – 38°27’07.7″N 109°44’05.3″W
  19. Elephant Hills / Needle District – 38°08’30.1″N 109°49’39.2″W
    • Devil Kitchen
  20. Wilson Arch / HWY191 – 38°16’21.5″N 109°22’18.1″W
  21. Hoover Dam – 36°00’48.3″N 114°43’53.2″W
  22. Fremont Indian State Park – 38°34’36.6″N 112°20’05.6″W

References

  • Destination details from local knowledge, some were extracted from hand-out literature/brochure, or website, and Wikipedia
  • Coordinates are from Google map in Degrees, Minutes, and Seconds (DMS)