Canada's Ocean Playground
September 2016
From Fundy National Park in New Brunswick, we drove for 4 hours to St. Margarets Bay in Nova Scotia, a northeast province of Canada. The afternoon sun cast a golden light on picture perfect scenery in front of us for miles after miles. Then Peggys Cove and Indian Harbor came to view and almost immediately took our breath away; a visually stunning display of colorful, rustic, houses on stilts, fishing boats, and the village mirror reflection on a deep blue harbor.
We arrived at King Neptune Campground near Peggys Cove late in the afternoon. Watching the sunset, soothing waves crashing on the shore and cool ocean mist wet our tent from a mere 15 feet away, we immediately felt into deepest Indian Harbor slumber.
Feeling refreshed following morning, we head to the famed Ryer Lobsters Market near our campsite for lunch. At less than $9USD per lobster, we ordered 2 for the road. But could we actually wait to crack these guys, or diving into it head first?
While waiting patiently nearly half an hour for our lobsters, we saw other patrons already start their feasts with a rapture-like expression in their faces. Talked to a middle age man about his lobster; with a silly grin, bits of shell still on his face, and lobster juice run down his chin “Very fresh, sweet meat and very tender!” He declared. When our lobsters finally arrived, in our famished state, we must have the same look of that half-crazed man. Other tourists arrived by taxis snapped pictures at our still steaming lobsters, or maybe they were taking pictures of the half-crazed tourists wielding shiny claw crackers fending off pesky intruders!
The following morning, we went exploring the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic in Halifax for its Titanic artifacts that we heard so much about.
Since April 1912, people involved in rescue operations have collected shipwreck items for a memento, few artifacts in this museum were donated while many other items are on loan. There is the remnant of mahogany deck recliner that once graced the Titanic first class upper deck, a pair of unknown baby boy brown leather shoes, pieces of partial carved oak grand staircase landings, or half of the intricate oak archway once hung on top of the entrance to the first class lounge. Stroll through the museum, we realized the museum has even larger collections for other maritime disasters in 1917, large shipwreck collections, the evolution of seafaring vessels, etc.
Descriptions on the pair of brown leather shoes clued us to Fairview Lawn Cemetery, about 10 minutes drive from Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. After 96 years, the shoes and the boy body finally linked and DNAed to be of Sidney Leslie Goodwin. Along with others 120 headstones here, we were awestruck at the irony of the deceased date; so many and all on the same day, April 15, 1912.
Sadden for the victims and typical human arrogant of “too big to fail” mentality, we were seeking solace in the nearby Halifax Public Garden. Strolling around the well-manicured lawn, freshly pruned flower beds, and large elaborated water fountains offer few minutes of reflection.
We spend few days in Yogi Bear campground in hope of catching glimpses of some exotic animals in the nearby Oaklawn Farm Zoo. A little zoo in the midst of farmhouses in a fairly remote location usually doesn’t appeal to us. And what is it with the name; “Farm” together with “Zoo” conjures the image of farm animals being fed to the large hungry cats or veracious reptiles in the pens, especially if the entrance fee is puny $8 per person. But from primates to birds, to reptiles, to African, Asian, and American animals… they’ve got them all.
There is an eclectic mix between wild animals and farm animals that are for sales. Turn the corner and you are face to face with a zonkey, a renegade donkey with stripes. Can’t wait to meet a zorse.
Turn another corner, you will find the brightest colors Himalayan pheasants which actually sparkle like diamond in the sun light.
And their flock of white puffs of something that resemble big birds with the sign that says Silkie Chickens, that despite it snowy feathers, actually has cool solid black skin.
And what are those tiny long mane hoofed animals roughly same size as fat dogs? People have to bend down to pet them, instead of riding them.
We were thoroughly and completely enjoyed and amazed at the variety of animals here. We still snicker at one of the lion’s cage has a sign that reads “Keep Fingers Out”. What stands between the hungry lion and soft tasty people is just a wimpy chain link fence. Sure, go ahead and tease the lion with your wiggling fingers through the fence!
Stopover in Hideaway Campground near Dingwall part of Cabot Trail to take shelter from heavy rain, we ended up staying for 4 days in this gorgeous campground and its unique lighthouse cabin.
Glimpse into the history of Cape Breton, one will find that the island has been occupied by the Mi’kmaq for 10,000 years, then the Viking explore this region in 10 century AD, followed by short live Portuguese in 1520, then the British and the French in 1605. Everybody left their marks, except for the elusive Spaniard Columbus. While the Mi’kmaq still live here, the remnant of Viking passing through according to a local researcher, the runestone found on the secluded beach may be the only thing that ties the first European to North America.
Take the famed Cabot Trail (actually, it is 2-lane highway) on the northern part of Nova Scotia, the twisty road change elevation dramatically through many small fishing towns like Cheticamp, Pleasant Bay, Dingwall, Neils Harbor, Ingonish, and Indian Brook. Besides the amazing coastal views, one will feel like flying after driven 75 miles of abrupt elevation and blind tight curves, according to Matt, a Maine motorcycle rider we met at Ponderosa Campground a few weeks back.
Chat with the friendly locals, they all pointed us to Bay St. Margaret Buying Station for Atlantic fresh catch. But the fishing boat not back yet until later in the afternoon. So we patiently waited until 7 pm for our mackerel boat to port. On the dot, the fresh mackerels have arrived; clear eyes, red gills, firm body and still slippery. All about 1 foot to 1.5 foot long each. We selected 2 fat body mackerels and asked how much, the young men working the net said “Oh no, it’s free. You can take as much as you want!”. That’s when we knew our eyes are hungrier than our stomachs. There must be more than 100 mackerels in the barrel! Put 5 fishes in our freezer and took off after saying goodbye to the nice young men.
We cleaned and salted all mackerels but charcoal grilled 2 mackerels immediately for our late supper. And what a treat that was; the smoky and salty skin blended well with the fresh, juicy, and firm meat from today catch was absolutely delicious.
It looks like the autumn rain has finally caught up with us here in the northern Nova Scotia. Places that we missed will have to put on back-burner until the weather improve. Our plan is heading to Maine for glorious falls colors, which could start as early as next few weeks.
GPS Coordinates
- Peggy’s Cove – 44°29’47.0″N 63°54’44.7″W
- Indian Cove – 44°31’06.5″N 63°56’06.1″W
- King Neptune Campground – 44°30’59.2″N 63°56’08.6″W
- Ryer’s Lobsters – 44°30’59.2″N 63°56’08.6″W
- Yogi Bear Campground – 45°00’04.7″N 64°58’26.0″W
- Oaklawn Farm Zoo – 45°00’13.2″N 64°50’40.2″W
- Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail (Counter Clockwise) start – 46°16’35.9″N 60°32’45.2″W
- Hideaway Campground – 46°53’13.0″N 60°27’36.6″W
- Bay St. Margaret Buying Station – 47°00’09.1″N 60°28’02.6″W
Reference
- Destination details were extracted from the respective attraction, hand-out literature/brochure, or website, and Wikipedia
- Coordinates are from Google map in Degrees, Minutes, and Seconds (DMS)