North Carolina

The Land of the Sky

August - September 2018

Chimney Rock is 315’ towering granite outcropping at the World’s Edge

Why Carolina has north and south? We asked, and the answer was not at all expected. Carolina doesn’t have any form of government at the time, so the British-appointed 8 very rich local men, known as Lord Proprietors, who made a mistake of appointed a governor to North Carolina in 1710 and not the whole Carolina, and separation stuck when the British formalized it in 1729.  And why the state sports a female name, but after digging around, we learned that Carolina has its Latin root “Carolus” or “Charles” in honoring the King of England

The Land of the Sky, the nickname some called North Carolina for its Great Smoky Mountains lofty height.

Plants give off high dosage of volatile organic compound (VOCs) that looks like fog on Smoky Mountain

Left South Carolina in the morning, we arrived at our basecamp Cheoah Point Recreation Campground in Nantahala National Forest North Carolina. Long rest is what the doctor ordered to explore the vast southwest region of North Carolina.

Boat dock just behind our Cheoah Point Campground

From what we’ve read, the lower section of Nantahala River provides a consistent class 2-3 rapids year-round and nearly 200,000 paddlers flock this river annually (see Note1). However, we were more interested in the upper sections of the river. The upper section normally a class 3-4 rapids, but sometimes the river swelled to class 5 rapids during rainy months. But it hasn’t been raining recently!

 

Upper cascades of Nantahala River doesn't look scary now, just come back during rainy months

Continue northwest on Hwy 129, we spotted Yellow Creek Falls trailhead roughly 11 miles from Robbinsville.

50 ft Yellow Creek Falls invitation to wade into its cold and refreshing pool

We started three-dam-tour begins at the town of Tapoco on Hwy 129 (known as the Tail of the Dragon) and continue to the town of Stecoah on Hwy 28, pass Robbinsville and merge onto Hwy 143 (known as Head of the Dragon), finally ended at Santeetlah Lake near our campground. Oh, what special about the Tail of the Dragon, you asked? It boasts 318 motorcycle-devouring curves in just 11 miles!

The 225-foot high Cheoah Dam provides the backdrop for the 1993 movie The Fugitive starting Harrison Ford
The 480-foot high Fontana Dam control the inflow of water to Cheoah Dam which form a long reservoir along Hwy 28
The 212-foot high Santeetlah Dam occasional going through pull test for the dam masonry integrity

The following morning, we were heading to the upper portion of Nantahala River to watch other thrillseekers. But made an abrupt detour to Lewellyn Branch (see Note 2) to check out the misty foggy hoovering on top of Lake Cheoah surface.

A lone figure gazing out into foggy Cheoah Lake

The perfectly calm lake belied the rough and excitement of Nantahala River class 4 rapids just 27 miles down the river. And we were happier just to be a couple of spectators!

Most people take-out their rental raft and kayak here before rougher section downstream
Some decided to tackle class 4 rapids head on, while other couldn't get off the pesky rock on Nantahala Falls
Not to be outdone, other going down the falls up-side-down!

The following day, we were itching to ride the 43-mile of twist and turn of the fame $100M Cherohala Skyway, nicknamed Head of the Dragon to Bald River Falls. The National Scenic Byway connects Tellico Plains in Tennessee and southwest Carolina, which attract motorcyclists from all over North America.

Cherohala Skyway near its highest point of 5,560ft
Bald River Falls near Tellico Plains, Tennessee

Seeking some solitude, we brought our pooch Kira and launch the kayak on the flat water of Santeetlah Lake for some explorations. Took advise from neighboring campers at Cheoah Lake Campground, Robert and April from Mississippi, we skirt the huge lake from the right and came up to a rock outcrop that served as a kayak landing pad and cozy picnic spot.

Kayaking to the left of Santeetlah Lake to visit Santeetlah Village can be seen in the distance
Turn right and skirting Santeetlah Lake shore for couple of miles to claim this rock outcrop

While enjoying a nice warm day on the lake, we saw Robert and April at a distance in their canoe. Quick waves of hello and we joined up with them to head toward Santeetlah Lake far right branch.

Our camping neighbors from Mississippi, Robert was nicer in person, really!

Little did we know, the map that we were using to explore the area was both misleading and incomplete. The map labeled Graham County Your Natural Destination made by Ron Johnson dated 2000-2013. For example, Hwy 129 from Tapoco to Town of Santeetlah was drawn in black color but nowhere in legend define what type of road that is. Assuming the wrong type of road can get you stranded, and many waterfalls showed in the map did not exist nor we can find any sign on the road pointing to these falls, and worst, lacking any distance to the falls from the trailhead so you know so you can adjust hiking time. After many hours stumbling around, we just give up on the useless map.

A useless map that will lead to none existence falls, sketchy point of interests, and incomplete legend

To visit Great Smoky Mountain in its entirety, one has to travel to both Tennessee and North Carolina just because this national park straddles both states.

View of the Great Smoky Mountain from Clingmans Dome parking lot

We drove to Great Smoky Mountain’s Clingmans Dome from Tennessee side. The trail to the famed Observation Tower was indeed very steep ½ mile long, but at 13% climb gradient made us gasp for air. While its 50ft height tower doesn’t seem that much but added to the lofty mountain gave its 6,643ft total height, visitors can see 7 states on a clear day: Tennessee, Kentucky, Virginia, North Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama.

Couple of elderlies with canes walking down from the tower was a humbling experience
The 360° platform was breathtaking, and not from its 50ft height but from strenuous ½ mile continuous uphill hike.
Almost there! Among the VOCs and the Great Smoky

Clingmans Dome was named after a North Carolina Senator, and not of some guy dangling on the mountain cliffs.

Leaving Cheoah Point Campground behind, we drove 116 miles to Cosby Campground in Tennessee to get closer to various attractions in Great Smoky Mountain.

Spend few days at our new basecamp Cosby Campground ready for our next adventure

From Cosby campground, we took the most scenic and fun Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail to visit one of many European settlements which started in 1830.

Here stood last of the Ogle farm that once support mountain men lifestyle: a small cabin built in 1883, productive cornfields, apple orchard, and a mill to grind the corn harvested. For 42 years, the Ogle families led a hard life with an ax, plow, and gun to the change once dense growths of rhododendron and magnolia into a livable homestead.

The Ogle cabin where they live for 42 years
The windows were originally shuttered, but eventually changed to glass inside the living quarter
The barn is short distance from Ogle’s cabin
Ogle’s barn that once housed farm animals in its 4 pens design

Although Ogle family farm was on Cherokee Orchard Road and not Roaring Fork Road, it was typically excluded from the Park’s Roaring Fork Motor Nature a dollar guide. We would think that either changes the guide name to avoid Ogle exclusion or change Cherokee Orchard Road into Roaring Fork Road!

Follow the motor natural trail to a beautiful Grotto Falls. Admittedly, we skipped the Rainbow Falls because we loathe the 6 miles loop. But Grotto Falls Trail of 2.4 miles round trip of ankle-twisting tree roots, slippery mud trail, and hungry wandering black bear, we were good on Grotto Falls Trail!

Ankle twisting trail section

After 1.2 miles the densely forested trail opens up to reveal a 25’ high waterfalls with footpath passed right behind the falls.

The slippery foot path between moss-laced grotto and pouring water falls
Its unnerving when come face-to-face with hungry black bear on the trail

The black bear sniffing the air then went straight for us, with bear spray out-and-ready, we started shouting and back up very slowly to keep good spraying buffer between the bear and us. Luckily, the bear stopped and lumbering back where he came from.

Further down the Motor Trail, we stopped by the Bales Place for a visit. The small dog-trot cabin has a larger living room and smaller kitchen sheltered 11 people at one point amazed us. A mule and a cow used to be in a barn a short distance from the house. The Bales’ pigs would roam the wood to scavenging for food and provide meat, lard, and hide to the Bales.

The Bales’ dog-trot cabin in foreground and corner of a barn showing in background

Alfred Reagan was a farmer and a carpenter like the Bales and the Ogles, but he possessed skill others don’t have; mountain man entrepreneur! He foresaw the need to build a store for a growing community, wielding blacksmithing hammer to mend neighbor broken equipment and precision mill-building skill that convert the power of water to grind corn and outsource mill-building skills to the neighborhood to earn extra income.

Central heating from chimney placement reflects Reagan’s ingenuity
Refined and precision woodworking skills allowed for an energy efficient home
Sliding up window that remarkably similar to modern design
Wooden flume diverting the Roaring Fork river to power the mill
The precision turbine placed low at the foot of the mill to allow gravity to do its work

For more than 104 years, many settlers made this place home among fertile land but difficult to farm; rocky soil, steep slopes, thick jungle all contributed the hard life here. But despite all their endurance in hardships, gradually by 1934, most of these mountain homesteaders, miners, and loggers have been relocated when Smoky Mountains National Park established.

The following day, we visited yet another Euro-American settlement called Cades Cove. After passing Sugarland Visitor Center on the right, we followed Little River Road to the Loop Road to start the Cades Cove tour.

John and Lucretia Oliver were the first permanent Euro-American settlers here in 1818. They built the log cabin in early 1820 and survived their first winter by Cherokee’s charity of dried pumpkin. The Olivers finally purchased the land where the cabin stood in 1826. When John Oliver died in 1864 and he and his wife are buried behind Cades Cove Primitive Baptist Church. Descendants of the Olivers also interred in the same cemetery in the later years.

The Olivers cabin

Primitive Baptist was introduced in Cades Cove in 1825 by the Olivers, and by 1887 the first Primitive Baptist Church was constructed in the village. We found out the term “Primitive” was not the condition of the church, but rather it depicts the “originality” of this faith. 

Attention to church details with flat smooth ceiling, lots of windows, and plenty of space for feet washing during mass
The Olivers were buried in the back of Primitive Baptist Church (steely above belong to a descendant)

Few miles down the Loop Road, we visit the strange 1902 Methodist Church with two entrances. The construction reflects their belief; men and women need to meet separately. However, the church did not opt for a physical divider inside. This “newish” church replacing the original log structure with a fire pit and dirt floor during the 1820s.

The regal two-door Methodist Church on Cades Cove Loop road

Since it was later in the day, we opted for visiting the beautiful Townsend that we saw earlier in the hope of making back to the campsite before dark. During sunset, the reflections on the Little River just outside of Townsend was both scenic and peaceful. Some people and their pets have already claim soaking spots in the cool river below.

Townsend begins where Little River and Cedar Creek meet

On our way back near Gatlinburg Tennessee, we caught a glimpse of a cool waterfall while passing a bridge and decided to make a roadside stop.

The Sinks waterfalls along Hwy 73 in Gatlinburg

The Sinks contributes more than 7 deaths since 1971 due to its strong undertow and tremendous currents around the falls. Interesting waterfalls but very deadly we might add.

Leaving Cosby National Park Campground behind, we traveled 70 miles next morning to Mt. Pisgah National Forest to visit a couple of waterfalls native to this region. For $3 per person, one can spend the whole day at Sliding Rock Falls. At the 60ft height, this waterfall is not particularly pretty, but it attracts people of all ages just to sit on their haunch and slide down into the freezing pool of water below.

Sliding Rock Falls at it most quiet time

We continue on Hwy 276 south for another 1.2 miles to an amazing waterfall, the Moore Cove Falls. This waterfall was named after a previous owner, Adam Moore. It was sold to Biltmore Estate for $155 before it became part of the National Park.

Moore Cove Falls with partial sunlight shone through
From grotto inside the Moore Cove Falls

We follow Looking Glass Creek 4 miles downstream to a spectacular Looking Glass Falls. The mystical name comes from nearby Looking Glass Rock, which the locals thought it resembles looking glass in the winter time.

Looking Glass Falls reflect perfect lighting in mid noon

While resting in our Cozy Snail in Mt. Pisgah campground, we met three middle-aged ladies told us the Chimney Rock was way overrated and we just politely smile, but from the inside, we determined to visit the giant monolith the following day.

Our little primitive basecamp at Mt Pisgah Campground
Freshly baked apple strudel breakfast from local shop provide fuel for our Chimney Rock excursion
After long twisty 3 miles ride on the bus, we are going through the rock tunnel to reach an elevator
The Chimney Rock view after exiting the Gift Shop
Trail leading to Opera Box vista
Opera Box vista point midway up the mountain protected by wooden rails
Chimney Rock view from Opera Box with flag fly at half-staff for Sen. John McCain passing
The 404ft height Hickory Nut Falls
Looking up at the Hickory Nut Falls

The top of Hickory Nut Falls was filming location for 1992 movie The Last of the Mohicans. The upper section of the falls is reached using Exclamation Point Trail and continue to Skyline Trail, and you reach the top of the Hickory Nut Falls. This was where the final fight scene between Chingachgook and Magua taken place.

Next day, we drove 70 miles to Little Switzerland. Admittedly, the ski town name intrigued us for we have no idea that some parts of North Carolina actually have snow in the winter. Getting a cup of hot coffee, we chat with the friendly store proprietor. She said the region has been very hot and dry compared to last year and happened more frequently in recent years.

One store proprietor insisted it has been hot up here in recent years
The Switzerland Inn, source of many skirmishes between Blue Ridge Parkway and local interests during 1960s
Toms Creek Falls is 11 miles south on Hwy226

To see most of the attractions in Grandfather Mountain, Linville Recreation Area, and Moses H Cone State Park, we decided to stay for few days at Julian Price Memorial Park located at the foot of Grandfather Mountain.

Campsite at Julian Price Memorial Park is a bit cramped for our trailer, truck, and 12’x12’ gazebo

After a good breakfast, we drove past the Forrest Gump Curve (1994 movie of the same name starring Tom Hanks) on Grandfather Mountain Entrance road and set out to hike up Grandfather Mountain Rough Ridge Trail at milepost 302.8. Although the trail is only 0.8 miles, steep uphill with rocks, boulders, mud, and boardwalk steps to reach various overlooks.

Grandfather Mountain Rough Ridge Trail leading to overlook vista
Flat Rock Overlook with view of Grandfather Mountain and Linville Valley is at mile post 308.3

After long hikes of today, we need a reward dinner to boot. What could be better than southern flavored chicken thighs seared on a hot pan and topped with string beans in a cold day such as this? To give a bit acidic twist, we made a sour and savory tamarind soup Sinigang with chicken breasts and cauliflower.

Spirit warming meal made fresh after a hard day hiking

Looking at the local weather forecast last night, we knew at some points during the hike we going to get wet. With a huge umbrella on one hand, the camera on another, we started for the Upper Falls Overlook which a part of the Linville River.

Upper Falls Overlook under the cloudy blue sky

Then few raindrops turn into pouring rain as we make our way down to Linville Falls Plunge Basin. The half-mile trail wasn’t too difficult, what difficult was the rain brought muddy runoffs and forest debris hiding the uneven ground where we place our feet. Each step is the guessing game what actual the ground elevation be. Met bunch of wet teenagers hurrying back out and mumbling something like “we are going the wrong way!”.

Linville Falls Plunge Basin with the camera man knee deep in muddy debris

As we are heading back out the parking lot, the rain stopped as quickly as it came, revealing the beautiful blue cloudy sky above. Breathing sigh of relief, we were heading toward the Linville Gorge Information Cabin just a mile down state road 1238.

Linville Gorge Information Cabin

We came in and chat with young park staff about how to get to Blowing Rock formation. The famous formation which has been said if a person throws a light object (coin, small stone, spit, etc.) over the cliff, the strong wind gusts will blow it back to the thrower. We little surprise when he called another female staffer to ask for directions. With a broad smile on her face “, Y’all get on Blue Ridge, go ‘bout 7-iron to your first right… then ask people in town!” What? Thanks for the direction lady! Perhaps just a simple “I am not sure” will suffice.

Cute and quaint Blowing Rock village just 8 miles south of Julian Price Memorial Park campground. The village was named after a blowing rock formation perches 3,000ft above the Johns River Gorge.

Blowing Rock outcrop with sweeping view of peaks, forests and Johns River Gorge in the distance

We came back to Grandfather Mountain Rough Ridge trail and attempt to continue the trail higher up. Since the trail still wet from last night rain, muddy path, slippery rocks, puddles… greeting us every step of the way.

Resting on outlook further up Rough Ridge trail

Just 4 miles down the Blue Ridge Pkwy from Julian Price Memorial Park, we found Moses H Cone Memorial Park interesting tidbits. This 1901 summer home and Flat Top Mountain once belonged to Moses Herman Cone, the inventor, and manufacturer of denim fabric that Levi Strauss and Company was using for their jeans.

Upon their deaths, substantial property including Flat Top Mountain, the Manor, Bass Lake, Trout Lake, and Flat Top Tower was donated to the state.

Horse-drawn carriages used to house in this building
Flat Top Manor was the filming location for the 1999 movie “The Green Mile” starring Tom Hanks

Came back later that evening tired but happy that we have seen some amazing places, we prepared some Mexican beef stew, boiled sweet corns, and crunchy grapes for dinner.

Scrumptious dinner freshly made by Mexican beef stew, Cajun flavored corns, and local beer

About 65 miles west of Julian Price State Park, 350 million years old Stone Mountain calling to the English, the Scotch-Irish, and the German homesteaders and miners in 1784. And they have made this place home. But what calling us was the native waterfalls and explore the early settlements.

Kira tip-toed across Widow Creek Falls

Window’s Creek Falls was short ¼ mile walk from Stone Mountain Road and only 4 miles driving distance from our campground at Stone Mountain State Park. The shallow water and smooth rocks provided a perfect playground for our pooch.

State Park decides to restore the Hutchinson Homestead in 1997 in hope of preserve the Hutchinson legacy. The Hutchinsons built the small cabin at the base of Stone Mountain in 1855 and raised a family of 8 children there. Few generations of the Hutchinsons stay in the mountain, however, some descendants either moved down from the mountain, or died out, or abandon the property.

John and Sidney Jane Hutchinson raised 8 children during the 1850s
The old barn that used to house oxen, mules and ducks
Hutchinson Homestead with the view of Stone Mountain in the background
State maintained beautiful green lawn in front of Stone Mountain
The trail in front of the mountain provide access to waterfalls and climbing path

When one search for Hutchinson Homestead, there are 2 references that will pop up. One is in New York, while the other one is here in Stone Mountain, NC. And if one search for Stone Mountain, there will be 2 Stone Mountains. One is Stone Mountain State Park in Roaring Gap, NC, while another one is Stone Mountain Park in Stone Mountain, GA.

What least confusing and the most beautiful example of middle-class Appalachian farmstead found along Blue Ridge Parkway at milepost 238.5. Husband and wife team, Martin and Caroline Brinegar, built a cabin, granary, springhouse, and an outhouse. The steep terrain did not deter the Brinegars.

1889 Brinegar Cabin built on a beautiful stone foundation
Brinegar cozy living quarter with stairs leading to the attic
The springhouse allowed the Brinegar to fetch clean water and to store food
View to main cabin from the springhouse steps

Sometimes things don’t go according to plan; we supposed to be at Cape Lookout at North Carolina Coast then head to Virginia to complete our southern trip, then the news of Hurricane Florence going to make landfalls this coming Friday (Sep 14th, 2018), which cut our trip short and forced us to head westward to give us 1-2 days ahead of the impending hurricane.

Leaving North Carolina but we know that we’ll be back again to enjoy what this beautiful state has to offer.

GPS Coordinates

  1. Cheoah Point Recreation Area – 35°22’13.2″N 83°52’09.9″W
  2. Cheoah Dam – 35°26’57.3″N 83°56’11.5″W
  3. Fontana Dam – 35°27’00.6″N 83°48’19.4″W
  4. Santeetlah Dam – 35°22’42.7″N 83°52’28.5″W
  5. Bald River Falls – 35°19’28.8″N 84°10’39.6″W
  6. Mt Pisgah National Park Campground – 35°24’11.7″N 82°45’25.8″W
  7. Great Smoky Mountain’s Clingmans Dome – 35°33’24.5″N 83°29’46.0″W
  8. Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail – start 35°40’41.5″N 83°28’49.6″W, end 35°42’52.5″N 83°29’10.7″W
  9. Cades Cove – start 35°36’23.9″N 83°46’37.0″W, end 35°36’15.4″N 83°46’37.1″W
  10. Julian Price Memorial Park – 36°08’21.0″N 81°44’09.9″W
  11. Grandfather Mountain Forrest Gump Curve – 36°05’32.7″N 81°50’09.7″W
  12. Grandfather Mountain Rough Ridge Trail – Parking 36°05’53.8″N 81°47’49.6″W, Rough Ridge Overlook 36°05’49.8″N 81°47’58.6″W
  13. Sliding Rock Falls – 35°18’43.2″N 82°47’15.6″W
  14. More Cove Falls – 35°18’19.8″N 82°46’28.3″W
  15. Looking Glass Falls – 35°17′46.8″N 82°46′ 6.2″W
  16. Chimney Rock State Park – 35°25′59″N 82°15′02″W
  17. The Sinks – 35°40’09.2″N 83°39’45.2″W
  18. Lynville Plunge Basin – 35°56’58.8″N 81°55’35.7″W
  19. Upper Falls Overlook – 35°56’59.9″N 81°55’38.0″W
  20. Linville Old Cabin – 35°56’41.4″N 81°55’58.9″W
  21. Blowing Rock – 36°08’06.6″N 81°40’39.5″W
  22. Moses H Cone State Park – 36°08’56.6″N 81°41’34.3″W

References

Note 1: Number of paddlers yearly estimate by Bryson City North Carolina titled Whitewater Rafting,  2018, Swain County NC Chamber of Commerce, http://www.greatsmokies.com/rafting.php

Note 2: Some literature spelled Lewellyn as Llewellyn which adds to the confusion.

  • Destination details from local knowledge, some were extracted from hand-out literature/brochure, or website, and Wikipedia
  • Coordinates are from Google map in Degrees, Minutes, and Seconds (DMS)