Louisiana

The Pelican State

June 2018

Arrived at our first Louisiana campground, the Bayou D’Arbonne Camping introduced us to the slow and casual life of a southern state. The humidity hovering at 70% made West Monroe feels hotter than it is; Kira was panting, sweat soaking our clothes, the sticky and hot breath made pesky mosquitoes brazen

Acclimatize to our first southern exposure: the intense heat and thick humidity

We were advised not to stroll along the river called Bayou D’Arbonne behind the campground due to the lurking alligators. Well, we were much happier in our Cozy Snail cool fresh air conditioning anyway, at least until we become acclimatize to southern weather. The highlight of the campground was the well-pruned blueberries shrub, with its branches laden with ripening berries waiting for the harvest.

Fresh sweet blueberries were welcome addition to our otherwise typical breakfast

After the satisfying breakfast, we drove to the Black Bayou National Wildlife Refuge marshy wetland in Monroe Louisiana. The odd shaped cypress cast eerie shadows on murky swamp below. Our inexperience eyes told us no alligator, but our heads say they should be everywhere. Dragonflies darting everywhere so are the Eastern Kingbird that chases after them.

The blackness of the pond from dead vegetation and beaching from the cypress tannic acid
Thankful for small wooden boardwalk spans across alligator infested bayou

Out of the otherworldly scene, emerge an old man on a tiny dinghy cast his fishing line out into alligator-infested black water.

We bowed to the brave fisherman (in circled area)!

We never thought that we will ever see a great dog park, until Kiroli Park! Just like any well-developed city park, it has tennis courts, gardens, and scenic trail. But the highlight of this park was the amazing dog park that boasts spaciousness, double waterfalls, hilly terrain nestled between towering pines is such a dog haven!

Kira is waiting for us to catch up
Cool streams to keep Kira fresh and us entertained
Lots of room to roam with shaded spots and plenty of water

It was drizzled by the time we got to Stuart Lake Campground. An almost primitive campground that offers some water spigots and a single pit toilet that perpetually out of tissue paper. But it’s the peaceful and spacious paved sites that attracted us. Uh… OK, it’s the $5/day in a shaded site was the dealmaker in our book.

The smallish campground is dog friendly, except for the recreational area at Stuart Lake

Vacation is where you make it! Got 2lbs of crawfish and sweet local corns in town, we slow cook a real southern gumbo brew with Swamp Fire and Louisiana Crawfish Boil and enjoyed it while having a good laugh from the overpriced corn that we bought earlier.

The flavor and the heat from this southern dish surely stayed with us until next morning

Another dark and gloomy down pouring day as we arrived at Tickfaw State Park. The park has boardwalks through forest and cypress swamps, also a river for canoeing but the alligator warning sign stood as silence sentry shunned any desired to launch our kayak.

Very quiet at the campground until the eastern narrowed-mouth frogs decided to bleat

Pouring rain and strong wind made us crave for California weather. The unexpected rain brings a herd of sheep near our campsite, or so we thought. After failing attempt of looking for the pillowy animal around, we found the bleating sounds were made by a bunch of tiny frogs called Eastern Narrowed-Mouth. And that gave us a rare dinner idea, so off to the local seafood market. We gathered up some southern specialties; meaty frog legs, Cajun rice, and local corns.

Cajun rice pair with meaty frog legs fried in butter and sweet corns made our southern experience completed

Oak Alley Plantation was a magnificent plantation build in 1837 by the blood and sweat of slaves, using double rows of oak trees planted in the 1700s by unknown French settler as a backdrop. The beautiful oak alley connecting the main house and the Mississippi River for the last 300 years.

Shackles and chains, some worn by hundred of slaves worked at the plantation
Slave’s quarters just right behind the massive Oak Alley main house
Recreation of a slave quarter in stark contrast to the opulence master quarter
Three centuries old oak trees beginning to show its age
Couple of archeologists at Oak Alley plantation are digging for historical artifacts

This is the second time we visit the beautiful Fontainebleau State Park. And just like the first time, this state park only gets better with age. New campground features up-to-date toilet and shower facilities. The elegant pier is still photogenic over the magnificent sunset of Lake Pontchartrain. White sand feels warm to the touch and squeaks between your toes. Shallow beach entry over the massive lake inviting a cool brackish dip.

The fishing pier lit up its inviting boardwalk every night
Small cypress groove cast silhouette against setting sun

Time always change things, some take a more sinister attitude in Fontainebleau. The quaint fishing pond near the brick pavilion now nurturing few alligators patiently waiting for meal opportunity. The park ranger has barricaded most vulnerable spot to protect visitors.

Difficult to spot a pair of nostrils and lurking eyes in the mist of vegetation

When the sun disappears behind the horizon, wildlife can be seen out foraging, more like scavenging for food at picnic sites. A large shadow of a razorback moving effortlessly between picnic sites that were held earlier. The familiar shape of raccoon hunchback dangling halfway inside the park trash can. A small herd of deer warily nibbling on a patch of grass near our campsite.

Sunset at Lake Pontchartrain
Kira relaxes and waiting for her human parents to return to the campsite

Safe and sound back in our beautifully primitive campsite, we were excited to looking forward to exploring Fontainebleau park the following day.

Small warm white sand beach with very shallow entry point to the huge Lake Pontchartrain
Open lawn with centuries old oak trees and their beard of Spanish mosses
Expansive lawn promises pleasant picnics if not for the scary deer flies determination for blood meal

Crossover the 24 miles world longest Pontchartrain bridge to French Quarter from Fontainebleau State Park was an experience. No rest stop, even if your car broke down in the mid-span, a nice cop will move you out of the way in a hurry.

Lake Pontchartrain causeway disappears into horizon of this huge lake

Passing through New Orleans French Quarter where Mardi Gras is held every year before Ash Wednesday, we can only imagine how colorful it must have been. But the intense heat in June made it less enjoyable to stroll around. So, continue to City Park for more shaded strolling!

While City Park in Louisiana has many wonderful attractions, the more interesting Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden holds many sculptures by renown artists from around the world. The impressive garden contains many thought-provoking art pieces, and the best was free admission!

Overflow fragment of literature? (Plensa: Overflow, Spanish, 2005)
Self-defeating victory or in-control mother? (Bortero: Mother and Child, Columbian, 1988)
Victim of violence or embracing different perspective? (Saar: Travelin’ Light bell, American, 1999)

The interesting Travelin’ Light is not only a sculpture, but it is a working bell. If the chain on the back of the figure is pulled, a mournful, sonorous sound emitted.

Perpetual ignorance or destiny will take its course? (Do-Ho Suh: Karma, Korean, 2011)
Shape of things to come or the horse calmness? (Butterfield: Restrained, American, 1999)
Inner peaceful inflection or contemplation before winning? (Renoir: Venus Victorious, French, 1914)

From the sculpture garden, we drove 20 minutes to reach Jean Lafitte National Park. The park boasts a beautiful boardwalk on top of Barataria Preserve. Perhaps this is the only place that we get close and personal with the huge wild alligators or face-to-face with cute jet black and quite poisonous grasshoppers.

The air was hot and humid, but tall cypress canopies sheltered us from the burning sun
This chomper just few feet away from our tinny boardwalk, and we respectfully gave him plenty of space
Cute but toxic 3” lubber grasshoppers milling about their business

A little less known Metairie Cemetery has a very colorful past. The beautiful cemetery, if there such a thing for a depressing place, used to be racing horse track where the social elites gathered. When the club refused membership to a wealthy man, whom in turn, vowed to convert it into a cemetery if given chance. After the Civil War, the club fell into a hard time and put it up for sales. The vengeful man bought it and convert to what it is today; an oval race track cemetery.   

Burial plots always seem high and dry due to the water table is very high in New Orleans some have said. When grave diggers start few feet down the grave begins to fill with water, the casket will practically float. Thus, the unique interred tradition was born.

We’ve talked to several Louisianans and even they are not sure what to make of their own culture when asked; often times, they even contradicting or simply laugh it off. For us, Louisiana has amazing and diverse in food and culture which we happily and immensely enjoyed; we’d called it spice-of-life to describe Louisiana.

GPS Coordinates

  1. Black Bayou National Wildlife Refuge – 32°36’16.8″N 92°03’05.3″W
  2. Kiroli Park – 32°32’55.1″N 92°09’55.8″W
  3. Stuart Lake Campground – 31°30’28.6″N 92°26’32.5″W
  4. Tickfawn State Park – 30°22’55.4″N 90°37’51.8″W
  5. Oak Alley Plantation – 30°00’15.2″N 90°46’33.7″W
  6. Fontainebleau State Park – 30°20’08.2″N 90°02’38.8″W
  7. Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden – 29°59’12.3″N 90°05’44.3″W
  8. Jean Lafitte National Park – 29°47’05.9″N 90°06’55.8″W
  9. Metairie Cemetery – 29°59’02.4″N 90°07’03.0″W

References

  • Destination details from local knowledge, some were extracted from hand-out literature/brochure, or website, and Wikipedia
  • Coordinates are from Google map in Degrees, Minutes, and Seconds (DMS)