Colorado

The Cheese Burger State

October 2018

Weed popularity in Colorado producing upward of $1.51B a year, just slightly behind ski resorts revenue of $1.56B, one would think we came to Colorado in hope of catching the angel in blue. But it’s the lofty high of the mountains that reels us in.

Bridal Veil Powerhouse in Tellurite reminiscent of 2009 Pixar movie Up

To properly acclimate Colorado high elevation, what better than visiting the famed US Air Force Academy in the Colorado Springs at 6,035 ft above sea level.

The most-visited man-made attraction in Colorado, the Cadet Chapel

Originally the USAF was a part of the United States Army, but after 1947 the USAF became a separate academy. Many war theaters later, the prestige of the academy grew into what it is today. However, civilians still can visit the Air Force Academies with just a driver license and vehicle registration.

Looking back at the entrance where one can gain access into the Chapel
Simplistic alter hosts hundredth of weddings yearly

There is a smaller Catholic chapel on the lower ground floor, with even smaller Jewish and Buddhist chapels in the basement. For visiting times and other requirements, one can get up-to-date information here.

The Colorado fog still shrouded Cadet Chapel with the sound of cadet training echo in the air

About 27 miles north of Colorado Springs, an easy scenic backcountry drive to Rampart Range which offers unique and great views as it descends to the famous Garden of the Gods. The dirt road peak-out at 9,749 ft, but is easy in the first 18.7 miles but become increasingly narrow, steep, and rough spots as we get near the Garden of the Gods.

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Preparing breakfast after peaceful rest on Rampart Range Road opposite side of the reservoir
Balanced rock height is deceiving from a certain angle on Rampart Range Road
Now try this angle for actual size!

At the end of the scenic Rampart Range Road, we reached the Garden of the Gods which sits at 6,400 ft. The admission is free and a chance sighting of the majestic Bighorn Sheep among the beautiful red rock formations on casual stroll was amazing. This city park voted the best in the United States, and 2nd in the world according to Gazette.

A view from Chuckwagon Pavilion
Among Three Graces fins, a skull of rare dinosaur was found here in 1878
The Ute Indian used to follow the bison herd migration across this land in the early 1800s
This is a sacred area even for the warring Indians, where they laid down their weapons upon entering

Red Rock Canyon Open Space locates just 3 miles south of Garden of the Gods. The same large parallel ridges that made up the rock formations in the GOG, but here they lie submerged under a reflective pond. We chose this place for its dog-friendly quality and the trails were a blast to stroll around with our pooch.

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The ridges, or “hogbacks”, are the same sandstone rocks found in the Garden of the Gods
The Red Rock Canyon used to be former quarry is now served as a reflection pond
Red Rock Canyon Path leads back to Lower Dog and Upper Dog Loops near the parking lot

Manitou Springs became a small “scenic health resort” town in 1871, and like many other tourists before, we come here for it’s water. Manitou Springs sports 8 mineral springs that are easily accessible and free. At an altitude of 6,412 ft, the artesian well receives much of its water through deep karst aquifers and surface runoff from Fountain Creek and Williams Canyon high above.

Shoshone Spring with some Sulphur was recommended by physicians for its curative uses
Cheyenne Spring naturally sweet soda spring came from 20,000 years old limestone aquifers a mile deep

The locals gather these springs by the gallons, and we naturally follow suit by topping off our airtight container with Cheyenne Spring and served chill from our Trusty Burro’s fridge.

Wheeler Spring has the highest content of copper, which some folks use for wound healing, ease arthritis, and bone-strengthening
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Navajo Spring attracted Indians and settlers which led to the establishment of Manitou Springs in 1871
Stratton Spring contains carbonated and tasty spring water but doesn’t provide any substantial minerals
7 Minute Spring carbonation caused it to erupt at the 7-minute interval and contain minerals like potassium, sodium, and zinc
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Iron Spring Geyser tasted like the orange rust at the bottom of the bowl, despite its fluoride and calcium content

Phantom Canyon Gold Belt Tour National Scenic Byway is 48 miles west of Manitou Springs, that follows an original train route between Cripple Creek, Victor, and Florence mining districts. It became fully operational in 1894 as the narrow-gauge railway became the major transportation link that carried rich gold ore out of the Cripple Creek.

Well maintained dirt road once served as historic stagecoach and wagon route before taken over by the railroad
The byway can be very narrow in some places
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The first of many bridge-crossings on the winding Eight-Mile Creek road
The remnant of the historic railroad; rails, spikes, tie, etc. can be found before reaching this bridge

Over 500 gold mines around Cripple Creek and Victor Mining District once yield in excess of 21 million ounces of gold, that some say, exceeding total gold production of California and Alaska combined. But if history tells us anything, that greed always has disastrous consequences.

Victor gold mine transforms otherwise a natural landscape into colorful made-made creation

In 1993, some open-pit cyanide-leaching gold mines tainted surrounding drinking water cost Colorado upward of $10 million to clean up. Few gold mines still open in Colorado,but as the gold runs dry, the town turn to gambling to survive.

Victor gold mine perches high on the right produces about $10 billion of mined gold in 2010

Less than 4 miles north of Victor, gambling town of Cripple Creek looms into view. Flashing neon signs now perch on the few remaining historic buildings.

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The road to Cripple Creek passes Buchannon Gulch far below
Have to stop at this heavily barricaded Little Ike Tunnel near the Horsethief Park Trailhead

A small timber-lined Little Ike Tunnel starts life as a railroad tunnel during the gold rush in the late 1800s. The train tunnel change into vehicle road, but traffic bottleneck was apparent. Finally the Little Ike Tunnel barricaded for good in 1994.

Long and dark Little Ike Tunnel is an obvious traffic hazard with a blind turn for opposing traffic
Cripple Creek produced over 731 metric ton of gold prior to 2005 now survives as a gambling town
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A historical glimpse into 1893 Cripple Creek mining town

Gaming at Cripple Creek (or anywhere in Colorado) is different than that of California. All casinos here catered to non-smokers, so visitors don’t feel like double whammy; already lost money to the one-arm bandit all the while contracting lung cancer.

Few hours break for altitude acclimation at Cripple Creek as the town sits at 9,494 ft, we are heading to the famed Pikes Peak! One can drive or take a train to one of the tallest peaks in Colorado. The peak was named after explorer Zebulon Pike, although he has never reached its 14,115 ft summit.

On a clear day, one can see four other surrounding states

At one point, the peak was named James Peak in honoring Edward James who successfully climbed to the summit in 1820. Now at $15 per person, anyone can make it up to the top in the comfort of their vehicle.

Resting at Devil's Playground, our Trusty Burro perches little more than halfway to the top
Some days the fog and rain obscure much of everything at the summit

Very comfortable at one of the highest road in Colorado, we immensely enjoy the diverse scenery and micro weather at Pikes Peak as we gave ourselves amble of time to acclimate.

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Standing on rock ledge contains the time capsule dedication and memorial marker at the top of Pikes Peak
Even during the wettest and coldest, hot coffee from the Historic Glen-Cove Inn is always a welcome treat

The steep downhill on Pikes Peak requires constant braking, which results in our CVT-equipped vehicle brakes overheating even with electronic braking engaged. The second time around, we cruising up and down the mountain in our trusty Buro 2nd gear without even touching the brake.

As autumn weather setting in and around Colorado, the magnificent golden aspen show off their brilliant color. We linger at the scenic George Town along HWY-70 for a casual stroll and enjoying a scenic picnic.

Georgetown with early sign of Autumn
The “Silver Queen of Colorado” reflects silver mining heritage despite nation stampede for the gold rush

About 76 miles northwest of Denver, the Rocky Mountain National Park many beautiful regions come calling; from the Moose and Big Meadows, Alpine, Wilderness, Heart of the Park, to the Waterfalls and Backcountry… start from lofty height 7,800 ft. We weren’t particularly keen to do any strenuous hike without long acclimation as some park roads hover above 12,000 ft.

Stretching our legs at Poudre Lake which starts at 8,720 ft elevation
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Just 4.3 miles from Poudre lake, the scenic overlook trailhead starts at 11,796 ft and steeply climb up the Alpine Ridge Trail
Peak-out at 12,005 ft along the Alpine Ridge Trail, the dizziness and headache will come to the uninitiated

Dragged ourselves back to our trusty Burro and continued to drive 2 miles past the Gore Range to the Lava Cliffs Overlook, we spotted a herd of majestic elks on the side of the road. But each step toward the herd is like walking in lead shoes and laboring from ragged breaths makes the trek torturous.

The majestic bull elks grazing near Lava Cliffs Overlook
Many Parks Curve Overlook with sweeping views of Mummy Range at lofty 12,183 ft

We finally take note that the Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) symptoms didn’t dissipate as we anticipated. Heading down to the scenic Sheep Lake 8,520 ft for recuperating. Spend 30 minutes to gather our wits and realized the AMS was ruining the experience and promise ourselves to be prepared for the next accent.

A prime spot for Bighorn Sheep viewing at Sheep Lake, but we must have missed the herd

It’s a bit tricky to acclimate for the high altitude when there is no campground higher than 10,000ft inside the park. The Elk Creek Campground at 8,553ft or Timber Creek Campground at 8,917 ft just won’t cut it when one trying to enjoy the scenery at 12,000ft.

Black Canyon National Park located 104 miles northwest of Colorado Springs. The ominous canyon name derived from the massive vertical marbled black wall, and it doesn’t help when most of the rock walls receive merely half-hour of sunlight each day.

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The usual sign for an unusual scenic spot
Inspire view from South Rim Overlook
The massive marble wall of the Black Canyon

At 2,300 ft from the valley floor, the Painted Wall is the highest and steepest cliff in Colorado. For the purpose of comparison, the 102-story Empire State Building in New York would only be halfway up the canyon wall.

Geologists dated the rocks at the bottom to be 2 billion years old (Precambrian era)

In 1882 the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad company built a winding railroad through the canyon. The route was an immediate hit among the train passengers, thus the name “Scenic Line of the World” was coined. In 1968, most parts of the railroad are submerged under the Morrow Point Reservoir.

The least visited National Park, but we met lots of people and their pooch that day
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Besides the spectacular scenery, the canyon host some of the most extreme activities anywhere. Rock climbing, rafting, kayaking, and hiking are reserved for the most hardened athletes. There are various hiking routes one can take to get to the bottom of the canyon. Although some trails are precarious, there was only one death since 2013. His cause of death attribute to massive alcohol consumption and marijuana usage.

We stayed at Ouray for few days to enjoy its foods and hospitality, then headed toward Tellurite through the infamous Yankee Boy Basin to Imogene Pass. The locals call the treacherous high mountain road to a remote town of Tellurite, “To Hell You Ride”. Both trails are rated “moderate” in some 4-wheel drive books as the trail gets rocky, narrow and steep.

Admiring the view at the “Drinking Cup” on Yankee Boy Basin trail
Camp Bird was probably coined after the miners lunch got pick off by the ever present jays

Camp Bird probably the only gold mining operation that provided creature comforts for its miners. It was discovered in 1896 by an Irishman, Thomas F. Walsh, who felt that the 400 miners who worked there should be treated fairly with decent lifestyle; hot running water, electric lights, as well as 8hrs workday instead of the typical 12hrs. We tip our hats to his entrepreneur spirit!

A narrow spot on the trail with a huge rock overhang

After 9.3 miles on Yankee Boy Basin, we continued to Imogene Pass which climb steeply to 13,114 ft. This pass is the second highest drivable pass in Colorado which pass through old mining town Tomboy in Savage Basin.

Once Tomboy even host restaurants, bars, a post office and even a bowling alley for miners in the late 1800s
All Tomboy’s 900 inhabitants left town when last bits of gold ran dry in 1927
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Our Trusty Burro perching at 13,114 ft on the infamous Imogene Pass
Going down the Imogene Pass with the view of Black Bear Pass ahead
Peaceful downtown Telluride once interrupted by Butch Cassidy’s first bank robbery on June 24, 1889

After a few days rest at Saddlehorn Campground, we explored the beautiful Colorado National Monument prior to our return to California. A herd of bighorn sheep was grazing on the side on Rim Rock Drive as our vehicle gets near, they just hopped over the 48” tall guardrail and disappeared down the steep ravine.

Once in danger of becoming extinct, the Desert Bighorn Sheep made a remarkable comeback since 1979
The ram sports a 30lbs coiled horns and scent glands near the eyes
Rim Rock Drive can be seen below the Fruita Canyon
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We enjoy the vantage view on a 2-billion-year old rock
All 3 tunnels inside Colorado National Monument are only 10’6” height cause headache for some RVs
The lone cyclist is enjoying the long down hill ride

Little did we know that the bicyclist we met in Colorado National Monument (can be seen in the picture above) will meet again in Utah’s Canyonland! That’s incredible 104 miles bicycle ride and 5 days later. Check out our chance encounter in our Utah blog here.

Our Trusty Burro and Cozy Snail in tow
Enjoying a dispersed camping spot on Colorado mountain top
Or down on river, we treasure our experiences for the last few weeks in Colorado before crossing to Utah

Colorado sceneries and its incredible height literally taken our breath away, from the highest drivable road at 14,115 ft to many of its effervescent minerals spring water in a quaint town, the “Cheese Burger State” calling us back time and time again. The addiction is hard to shake off once we experienced this amazing state.

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GPS Coordinates

  • US Air Force Academy (to check for closure starting January 2019) – 39°00’30.7″N 104°53’25.5″W
  • Rampart Range & Mt. Herman Road (off-road) – starts 39°05’17.7″N 104°54’40.5″W, ends 38°51’58.1″N 104°53’48.1″W
  • Garden of the Gods – 38°52’40.5″N 104°52’10.8″W
  • Red Rock Canyon Open Space – 38°51’07.3″N 104°52’41.6″W
  • Manitou Springs – 38°51’29.1″N 104°55’02.7″W, Visitor Center for town map – 38°51’27.8″N 104°54’11.3″W
  • Phantom Canyon Road (off-road) – Starts 38°29’43.4″N 105°06’37.2″W, ends 38°42’38.5″N 105°08’00.2″W, old section of original track 38°34’17.0″N 105°05’09.5″W
  • Cripple Creek – 38°44’47.8″N 105°10’42.1″W
  • Pikes Peak – 38°50’23.3″N 105°02’41.0″W
  • Rocky Mountain National Park – starts 40°15’59.2″N 105°50’00.6″W, ends 40°24’20.8″N 105°37’16.7″W
  • Black Canyon National Park – 38°32’28.2″N 107°41’35.3″W
  • Yankee Boy Basin (off-road) – starts 38°00’55.6″N 107°40’28.2″W, ends 37°57’00.3″N 107°43’43.2″W (continue to Imogene Pass)
  • Imogene Pass (off-road) – starts 37°56’50.2″N 107°43’35.2″W, ends 37°56’22.0″N 107°48’24.0″W
  • Saddlehorn Campground – 39°06’17.3″N 108°43’58.4″W
  • Colorado National Monument – 39°02’06.3″N 108°37’51.8″W

References

  • Destination details from local knowledge, some were extracted from hand-out literature/brochure, or website, and Wikipedia
  • Coordinates are from Google map in Degrees, Minutes, and Seconds (DMS)