North to the Future
August 2017
Alyaska once belonged to Russia. Fearing a future war with Britain could cause Russia to lose control of Alyaska, so its decision was to sell Alyaska to either to Britain or the United States. Soon after the Civil War, the US bought Alyaska for $7.2M (equivalent to $128M today) despite how unpopular that decision was with Congress and the public. The name Alaska derived from the native word that describes a piece of land that resembles the sea breakers.
After nearly 3 hours of bone-jarring ride that redecorated our trailer decors and reshuffled everything in the truck, the first Alaska town came into view called Chicken. With a tiny population of 17, and grew less as the year goes by. We stayed in Chicken Creek Campground with few amenities, but expensive and limited of everything, hell… even drinking water is hard to come by. The town original name was Ptarmigan (for a northern grouse), but the illiterate miners couldn’t even spell it so they called it Chicken instead, and the quirky name stuck.
All and all, the novelty of Chicken wear off fast when expenses added up and really nothing else to do in this nearly empty ghost town.
Back to Alaska Highway heading to Teslin Junction next morning, we stopped at Tok for a better camping experience. Contrary to Chicken, the Tok RV Village Campground was like heaven; free hot shower at any time you want, full hookup for our Cozy Snail, free and decent speed WIFI, gave our Cozy Snail some fresh water for the long journey ahead. Suddenly we realized that we make more sense to stay in Tok and day trip to Chicken instead.
To properly waking ourselves ready for beautiful Tok, we made piping hot Pike Place roast and pair with simple pick-me-up breakfast from fresh local ingredients we bought yesterday.
Well rested and our spirit high, leaving Cozy Snail at Tok, we brought Buro to Wrangell-St. Elias (see our Yukon Territories blog) for a remote and supposedly scenic McCarthy road to the interior of the park.
Starting the town of Chitina, we passed through a deep narrow gap “railroad cut” where our journey begins without our Cozy Snail in tow. Pass through Copper River, with the carcass of RVs drowning in the muddy banks.
There are numerous ponds along the way for beavers spotting and even occasion ptarmigans that look so much like chickens to us… I guess everything looks like chicken when you are hungry! The big letdown is at the end of 60-bone-jarring-mile, black bears can be seen roaming around the campground footpath and the 0.5-muddy-mile to Kennecott and 5 miles to Bonanza Mine…. put a damper to our spirits.
About 80 miles south of Wrangell-St. Elias, the beautiful Worthington Glacier offers a unique roadside glacier park that can still be accessed off the Richardson Highway. The highway originally started as a wagon road for gold prospectors in 1904, now served as a major highway connecting Valdez to Fairbanks.
The cold, crisp air waken our senses and remind us of our empty stomachs. The old town and new Valdez are only 33 miles away, that offer freshly caught seafood for a scrumptious dinner. All the while in Alaska, we were wondering whether the seafood still tainted with crude after Exxon Valdez massive oil spill in back in March 1989. As the story goes, the ship ran aground by Gregory Cousins, the Exxon Valdez 3rd mate, whereas Captain Joseph Hazelwood can be found snoozing in his bunk.
We continue to new Valdez and want to find some good smoked salmon. Easy Freeze Fish Market down the street offer taste test on variety of smoked salmon; coho, sockeye, chinook, and pink… our taste buds are much happy with chinook salmon for its buttery taste and more fatty flavor, and but it just way too expensive for something abundant as salmon in Alaska (disappointing that we thought we’ve seen the proprietor signal the cashier to charge a tourist price for our fish).
Next morning we head to Anchorage to visit one notable spot, the Alaska Wildlife Conservation on Seward highway. This facility provides a permanent home to Alaska native animals that either orphaned or injured, but the big drawn to us was a large number of Alaska wildlife can be found here.
We arrived at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation with our Cozy Snail, and were greeted by herd of wood bison roaming lazily in the meadow beyond. Kira took much interest in those massive beasts.
The animals here seem contented; from the family of muskox (not an ox but more like goat or sheep), lazy brown bears, majestic elks, massive moose, playful fox, powerful artic wolves…even an injured bald eagle and snow lynx. Viewing animals in this preserve was a drive-through affair which we found convenient for us and our pooch.
We were glad to learn those animals that sport antlers will shed and regrown, whereas animals with horns keeping them during their adult life. We stopped by the beautiful picnic spot within the conservation center for quick snacks and enjoy some fresh air and scenery before mosey over to Exit glacier.
We continue on Highway 1 to old fishing town Seward. This particular route offer lots of fantastic views which made the 127 miles driving really enjoyable.
Seward was named after William H. Seward, the Secretary of State who fought for the purchase of Alaska from Russia. The drizzly weather has not permitted us to ride the fun sled dog, but perfect for searching fresh fishes in Seward.
We visited Exit Glacier in July 2008 and came back again in August 2017. We expected the glacier will be receding somewhat and were surprised to see the glacier has retreated further back and the trail that we used to walk up to the glacier was gone.
Disappointed to see Exit Glacier rapid melting we logged into National Park Service to see what is happening to our beloved glacier.
If the abundance of fresh seafood and leisurely life of a small (working) fishing community attract you, then the town of Homer definitely has it. About 220 miles south of Anchorage, the charms of Homer are reeling us in.
We’ve seen many old and forgetful boats around Homer, but Bob Cousins family houseboat has that old world charm and romantic air when it all lit up in the evening. Used to be World War II troop carrier now converted to a 3-story houseboat. City administration sees it as a maritime junkyard. “Tourists don’t come here to see a place that looks like Miami…They come here to see the survival business of real fisherman” said the owner of the boat.
We suppose there are some truths to the Cousins logic. As one can see further down the Homer Spit, many of modern-looking resorts and condo rentals that dressed up Homer like any other tourist towns. While munch on smoked salmon, we were wondering if Bob Cousins, the owner of Homer Houseboat somehow related to Gregory Cousins that ran Exxon Valdez to the ground?
Make no mistake, Homer is a real fishing town and not tourist trap masquerade as a fishing town. For one, the town survives through its long and brutal winter beyond a few short months of tourist reason. One can get wild catch seafood from The Auction Block, Homer Farmers Market, Kachemak Shellfish Growers, or even book an exciting fishing trip.
Rain and cold front move into this part of Alaska that hampers our sightseeing on this spectacular landscape, but the worst was any chance of seeing aurora are slipping away. We finally snuggle in at the bunnies hopping Willow Creek Resort.
The weather still unpredictable, uncomfortable between wet, dry, and cloudy, we took the scenic Hatcher Pass that starts in the town of Willow and ends at Independence Mine State Historical Park. Like many road in Alaska, the 30 miles dirt road that filled with potholes and hairpin turns always end up in spectacular spot. At the 3,886ft summit, the views are rewarding.
By the time we reach Independence Mine, it has been closed for the day. Perhaps we have enough fun for today so we heading back to Willow Creek Campground for the evening.
If not for a little girl playing in the puddle, sightseeing would be pretty boring with the rain and all. Nibbling on some local pastries and hot coffee, we were wondering if we should visit a whimsical house in Talkeetna dubbed Dr. Seuss house, or see the very unique Alaskan Hobbit cabin… so we choose the later to brighten our day in this gloomy weather.
Mt. McKinley Scenic Flight Tour Company is just right next to the Hobbit House completed with beautiful water runway. The Hobbit Cabin has live green grass and trees grown from its rooftop. Surround the cabin was native flowers and shrubs. It can accommodate 2 persons on 1 bed and 1 bath with no dog. The bathroom is 15ft from the cabin so planning ahead is needed here. The cabin can be yours for $145/night. We didn’t reserve the cabin due to no pet policy but enjoy the beautiful scenery nonetheless.
We reserved a spot at Salvage River Campground in Denali National Park a few months back, and so stoked to able to reserve one. It situated 11 miles deep inside Denali (out of 45 miles total park road). After a quick check-in at the park Visitor Center, we pulled our Cozy Snail up the gradual slope of a well maintained paved road leading to the park interior. Like thousands of photos from park visitors, we were expecting majestic peaks, deep valleys, mirrored lakes, and animal grazing everywhere.
Since there are 32 sites at Salvage River Campground but only few were occupied, so we going around looking for sites with best Denali view… as our luck wouldn’t have it, see nothing but jungle of spruces and spruces. Elsewhere in first 14 miles of the Denali Park, the views are good but not spectacular and few animals can be seen only with long zoom lens. We can honestly say we’d seen more animals outside of Denali, than inside the park. Perhaps better view maybe had at Sanctuary River campground (mile 23), or Teklanika River campground (mile 29), or Igloo Creek campground (mile 34), or the last Wonder Lake campground (mile 85)? We doubt it!
“Wilderness without its animals is dead – dead scenery. Animals without wilderness are a closed book.” Denali National Park quote from Lois Crisler and a known Arctic Wild author, but we don’t think the park truly follow her advice, or maybe we didn’t take the bus 90 miles inside the park?
Losing interest fast with this overhyped park, we settle for Denali Rainbow RV Campground outside of Denali next morning despite the 2 days reservation… to take a break from Denali pesky campground hostess and better to explore the surrounding landscape.
We checked into Denali Rainbow Lodge & RV Park and take up a nice clean gravel pad site with full hookup. Best of all was there are Alaskan spaghetti & elk meatball can be found at Prospectors Historic Pizzeria & Alehouse, piping hot coffee at Rose’s Café that can only gets better with slices of bumbleberry pie, cheap gas at Fishers Fuel, and needed supplies at Three Bear Ace Hardware.
Met Collete and Bill our fellow campers from Circle, Alaska. We were helping Bill repairing his RV’s side mirror when we discover the problem is broken wing mirror housing. The couple left Indiana due to crimes, then move to Circle that has only 94 residents… fewer people, less crime they said. Due to the remoteness of Circle, they have been living subsistence here for a long time. When asked how they handle nuisance bears, they said it tasted like pork! When asked what they do when a rogue bear entered their backyard, Collete responded with Tarzan’s yell… “That always scares the living daylight out of marauding bears” she chuckled!
The next day, we stopped by Interior Alaska Fish Processors in Fairbanks for some smoked salmons. The price was reasonable and the smoked salmon was excellent. Who knew that slice of cold smoked salmon over a bed of steamed rice is so addictive!
Impressive sign for unimpressed beer and seafood joint… someone said of the Pike’s Landing. We are not entirely sure the quality of their food for we did not try it ourselves. And that sign “Love Alaska” in the back, is actually the name of miniature golf establishment. But together, these signs surely make tourists feel at home when they first saw it.
The Pikes Aviator Greenhouse and Sweet have a unique look thanks to a DC-6 fuselage sticking out from its roof. This DC-6 was in operation as Averts Air Fuel and Swissair during 1950, and this is the first unique attraction features real WW2 workhorse on a yet-to-be-famous ice cream parlor. Unfortunately, the establishment was not open when we arrived, but we were neither here for the foods nor drinks.
The weather changed frequently to worst; it often rain and the overcast sky made late August feel likes autumn. We feeling numb in our fingers and toes, the type of cold that continues seeping inside our bones.
We thought that after seeing the pumpkin weighing a few hundred pounds was impressive, until standing in disbelieve at the row and row of huge cabbages in the Georgeson Botanical Garden. The feeling of we have shrunk and normal vegetable has appeared ginormous didn’t escape us. We asked one of the volunteer caretakers of how these cabbages tasted like and she said the moose usually got to them first!
Leaving Georgeson Botanical Garden behind, we want to know where to see the famous Alaska Pipeline. The 800 miles oil pipeline that carries an average of 1.8 million barrels of crude oil a day from artic Prudhoe Bay to ice-free Valdez. While most sections have been buried underground, some pipe sections can be found above ground.
The earlier version of wax scraper called “pigs” weight almost 2,600lbs and the new one shown here is about 1,000lbs lighter. It was used to remove wax build up inside the pipe at the start of the operation. As more oil flow through the pipe, the oil heats up to 100degF which reduced wax build up so only lighter pig is needed to smooth the flow of oil and easier pumping.
Have you ever wondering where all the letters to Santa ended up? We have! Now we know… to the North Pole of course. Since 1912, the USPS has divided up the bulk of “Dear Santa” letters to local schools, municipalities and community groups, and the rest made it to North Pole, Alaska.
Continue heading south, we arrived at the solitude of the Moon Lake State Recreation.
Moon Lake Recreation provide a haven for our Cozy Snail after a long trip all over Alaska. Although it has only 15 campsites with no hook up (water, electricity, and sewer) and 2 clean pit toilets are welcome amenities. For lunch, we lightly seasoned locally raised elk steaks for grilling and served with broccoli, baby carrot, and sweet corns. Delicious! Elk has beef grained texture, but very tender and incredibly flavorful.
Next morning we bid goodbye to Alaska for an immensely enjoyable trip and starting to head back to the lower 48 states for the winter.
How To Get There
Chicken Gold Camp and Outpost – 64°04’20.4″N 141°56’01.7″W
Worthington Glacier State Recreational – 61°10’02.0″N 145°42’10.3″W
Tok RV Village Campground – 63°20’05.6″N 142°57’50.4″W
Worthington Glacier – 61°10’02.2″N 145°42’10.3″W
Valdez Old and New Town, Alaska – 61°06’56.5″N 146°15’56.9″W, and 61°07’44.8″N 146°20’58.2″W
Seward, Alaska – 60°06’04.0″N 149°26’26.9″W
Homer, Alaska – 59°36’03.2″N 151°25’07.4″W
Willow Creek Resort – 61°46’06.7″N 150°04’08.3″W
Hatcher Pass – Start 61°45’47.9″N 150°03’52.2″W, end 61°46’37.5″N 149°16’45.9″W
Talkeetna, Alaska – 62°19’22.3″N 150°07’12.7″W
Hobbit Cabin in Talkeetna – 62°15’18.1″N 150°04’52.7″W
Denali Visitor Center – 63°43’53.1″N 148°55’01.5″W
Denali Rainbow Lodge & RV Park – 63°44’51.8″N 148°53’57.0″W
Pikes Aviator Green House and Sweets – 64°49’55.5″N 147°50’43.6″W
Interior Alaska Fish Processors in Fairbanks – 64°49’39.2″N 147°46’26.3″W
Georgeson Botanical Garden – 64°51’21.9″N 147°51’37.5″W
Trans-Alaska Pipeline Viewpoint – 64°55’44.9″N 147°37’46.0″W
North Pole, Alaska – 64°45′4″N 147°21′7″W
Moon Lake State Recreation – 63°22’34.0″N 143°33’11.1″W
References
- Destination details from local knowledge, some were extracted from hand-out literature/brochure or website, and Wikipedia
- Coordinates are from Google map in Degrees, minutes, and seconds (DMS)
- Exit Glacier information on the National Park Site